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Education - Diamond Guide
Before you start diamond shopping, you need to have in-depth understanding of what you're buying. This guide expands your knowledge on diamonds, so you can select your diamonds based on the same criteria that jewelers use to grade them. |
Diamond Guide
Knowledge of gemstones will bring you to further questions and make you inquisitive
about the various terminologies associated with gemstones and its jewelry. To quench
this thirst of knowing more, you can visit our Gemstone Glossary. |
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Alexandrite |
Alexandrite is a form of the mineral Chrysoberyl which is a very attractive and
rare stone. It is 8.5 on Mohs hardness scale and mainly found in Russia, Sri Lanka,
Brazil, Burma, Madagascar and USA. The most sensational feature about this stone
is its surprising ability to change its color under different forms of light. Green
or bluish-green in daylight, red in candle light, green in fluorescent light and
reddish-purple in standard electric (tungsten) light. |
Alluvial |
Stones those have been sourced from alluvial deposits in river beds or transported
by water and deposited in seas and lakes. Many gems, including diamonds, are found
in alluvial deposits and Alluvial stones are usually of gem quality. |
Amber |
The gemstone Amber is the fossilized liquid, resin, or gum from pine trees and available
in various colors like golden yellow, golden orange, brown, green, red and violet.
These gemstones may contain insects, plant material, feathers and other small objects
that were trapped millions of years ago when the resin was sticky. Amber is quite
soft but perfect for jewelry as it can be easily cut, etched, faceted, or carved. |
American Cut |
Marcel Tolkowsky’s mathematically calculated ideal proportions and facet angles,
to produce maximum brilliancy consistent with a high degree of fire in a round brilliant
gemstone. This is known as American Cut or Ideal Cut. |
Amethyst |
Amethyst is a variety from Quartz family, colored by traces of manganese, titanium
and iron. Deeper-colored amethysts are more highly valued. It is available in colors
like purple, pale lavender to deep reddish purple, bluish violet etc. Rich purple
has always been a rare and noble color. Amethyst’s name comes from Greek word 'Amethystos'
meaning 'Not Intoxicated' or ‘Not Drunken’. The Amethyst is said to bring good
luck and to radiate love. This brilliantly sparkling stone is the most valued gemstone
from the quartz family. It is 7 on Mohs hardness scale and mainly found in Sri Lanka,
Brazil, Burma, Canada, East Africa, India, North America, Russia, Uruguay, Madagascar
and Australia. |
Appraisal |
Appraisal is a written statement based on estimated retail replacement value of
the gemstone or piece of jewelry. Appraisal is mainly used for insurance purposes
and should be updated after every few years. |
Aquamarine |
Aquamarine is a variety of mineral Beryl. This is a fascinatingly beautiful gemstone
found in colors like light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea. The more
intense the color of an Aquamarine, the more value is put on it. Its hardness makes
it very tough which comes in between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly
found in Brazil, Madagascar, Russia, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, Nigeria, Zambia,
Mozambique and USA. Its name is derived from the Latin 'Aqua' (water) and 'Mare'
(sea). Aquamarine is one of the most popular and best-known gemstones. |
Asterism |
Asterism is the star effect that appears on some gemstones. This star effect is
a reflection that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the
surface of a gem. Usually asterism is found in Ruby, Sapphire and Garnet. |
Aventurescent |
Aventurescent gemstones are those which display a colorful play of sparkling reflections
due to small metallic inclusions. |
Baguette |
Baguette is a French word meaning ‘Rod’. It is a step cut for small rectangular
shaped gemstones and diamonds. |
Bar Setting |
In this style of setting, gemstones are individually set between these bars leaving
the sides of the stones exposed to light. This method maximizes the amount of light
entering the gemstones which create superior brilliance and sparkle. |
Baroque |
Baroque is a term that refers to irregularly or oddly shaped stones mainly pearls.
Baroque pearls can be natural or artificial. |
Beryl |
The name beryl comes from ancient Greek word ‘beryllos’ which means precious blue-green
color. This stone is available in a variety of colors including green, yellow, greenish-yellow,
blue to blue-green, red, colorless and pink. |
Bezel Setting |
In this style of setting, a metal rim gently holds a gemstone in place by the girdle.
The bezel setting guards the gemstone from any damages and yet allows light to enter
which creates brilliance and sparkle. |
Birthstone |
A birthstone is nothing but a stone, which is associated with the date of one’s
birth and wearing of such birthstone is considered to bring good luck and health.
Certain stones are believed to have Supernatural powers and their relationship with
planets. Many cultures originally assigned a specific stone to signify birth during
each sign of the zodiac but over the time this tradition has been shifted from the
zodiac to calendar months. Following birthstones are assigned for every calendar
month. January – Garnet, February – Amethyst, March – Aquamarine, April – Diamond,
May – Emerald, June – Pearl / Alexandrite / Moonstone, July – Ruby, August – Peridot
/ Sardonyx, September – Sapphire, October – Opal / Pink Tourmaline, November – Citrine
/ Yellow Topaz, December – Turquoise / Tanzanite / Zircon / Blue Topaz. |
Blemish |
An external mark or surface imperfection on a gemstone. For example, a nick, abrasion,
knot, scratch, minor crack or fissure (cavity), or a poor polish. A natural or an
extra facet is also considered a blemish. |
Brilliance |
Brilliance describes the reflections of white light returned to the eye from a gemstone. Brilliance
is produced primarily when light enters through the table, reaches the pavilion
facets, and is then reflected back out through the table. The major factors that
affect the amount of brilliancy in a gem are refractive index, proportions, polish
and transparency. |
Brilliant Cut |
Brilliant Cut is the most common style of gemstone cutting and it is called a brilliant
cut because it is designed to maximize brilliance. The standard round brilliant
cut consists of a total of 58 facets which covers 1 table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star
facets and 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown; and 8 pavilion facets, 16 lower-girdle
facets, and usually a culet on the pavilion, or base. Brilliant cut stones normally
come in round shape, but there are modified variants in other shapes also. |
Briolette |
This term is used for a long teardrop shaped gemstone with rose cut facets, which
sometimes is also drilled to be used as a pendant. |
Cabochon Cut |
A cabochon shaped gemstone resembles a dome as it comes in round shape with no facets.
Generally onyx stone is cut in a cabochon shape. |
Cameo |
Cameo is a style of carving in which the design pattern is left and the surrounding
surface is cut away leaving the design in relief. This is done to use the natural
colors of the stone or shell to produce the different shadings of the carving. |
Carat |
The term Carat is used as a standard unit of measurement of the weight of most gemstones
including diamond. The word comes from the carob beans which are known for its consistent
weight and was used in ancient times to measure gemstones. One carat (ct.) equals
200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams (1/5 of a gram), or 1/142 of an ounce. There are 100
points in a carat. If all other factors are equal, the more a stone weighs, the
more valuable it will be. It is sometimes incorrectly spelled ‘Karat’, but Karat
refers only to the fineness of pure gold and gold alloys. |
Carving |
Carving refers to the cutting of decorative objects from a larger stone. |
Center Stone |
The center stone is a main stone placed in central position in a piece of jewelry
item with multiple stones. In a ring with one stone only, the center stone is also
called the solitaire. |
Channel Setting |
A setting style or method in channel form where no metal is displayed between stones
and these stones are held in only by a slight rim which runs along the edges of
the channel. |
Chatoyant |
The term chatoyant is used for those stones that have ability to display or reflect
a cat's eye effect. This effect is caused by the precise occurrence of slight inclusions.
A chatoyant gem exhibits a changeable silky luster as light is reflected within
the thin, parallel, fibrous bands. |
Choker |
A choker is a type of necklace usually made of pearls that fits tightly around the
neck. It comes in 14 to 16 inches in length. |
Citrine |
Citrine is a variety of mineral Quartz and available in colors like light yellow,
lemon yellow, amber-brown and brilliant orange. This radiant gemstone gets its name
from the French word ‘Citrin’, meaning ‘Yellow’. Citrine is known as a tough gemstone
with 7 points on Mohs hardness scale and with good durability. This gemstone is
mainly found in South America, Brazil, Madagascar, Argentina, Russia, Scotland and
Spain. |
Chip |
A curved break or absence of a tiny piece of a gemstone, caused by normal wear and
tear, or by cutting. |
Clarity |
Clarity is one of the main value factors of a gemstone which describes the absence
or presence of flaws inside or on the surface of a gemstone. Gemstones are graded
on a scale from Flawless (no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification)
to Included (eye visible inclusions or blemishes). If other factors are equal, flawless
stones are most valuable. |
Claw |
Claw is a style of setting used to hold gemstones in place. It is also known as
collet and consists of a ‘Bezel’ and ‘Prong’. |
Cleavage |
The tendency of crystalline minerals to break in one or more definite directions,
producing more or less smooth surfaces. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal
strain or by a sharp blow. Cleavage is one of the two methods used by stone cutters
to split gemstones in preparation for the cutting process. The other method is sawing. |
Closed Setting |
Closed setting is a style of setting in which back of the gemstone is not exposed
and usually stone’s back is covered by metal. |
Cloud |
A group of a number of extremely tiny white inclusions which gives a ‘cloudy’ or
‘milky’ appearance under 10X magnification. These clouds cannot be seen with the
naked eye and generally does not significantly impact a gemstone's clarity grade. |
Collet |
Collet is a style of setting used to hold gemstones in place. It is also known as
claw and consists of a ‘Bezel’ and ‘Prong’. |
Color |
Color is the most important criteria in determining the value of a gemstone. Color
is measured by tone and hue in a gemstone. In gemstones, color is more significant
than clarity / cut and even subtle differences in hue can make a lot of difference
in valuations. |
Color Change |
Few gemstones distinctly change their color when viewed under two different light
sources. This feature is commonly found in Alexandrite, Sapphire and Color Change
Garnet. |
Color Grading |
A system of grading gemstones color based on their hue or tone. Usually a well distributed
hue is considered best for a gemstone. |
Color Enhancement |
Color enhancement is the improvement process of a gemstone’s color mainly by irradiation
and HPHT (High Pressure, High Temperature). |
Composite Gemstone |
It refers to a gemstone which is assembled from several pieces, often used to imitate
a gem. |
Corundum |
Corundum is a hard mineral that exists in the form of colored crystals, such as
Rubies and Sapphires. |
Crown |
The upper portion of a cut gemstone above the girdle which surrounds a large flat
area on top known as table. |
Cryptocrystalline |
This term is used for a mineral structure in which crystals are very small and due
to that they are not even distinguishable through a microscope. |
Crystal |
A crystal is a solid material that has a definite internal atomic structure. Its
atomic stricture produces a characteristic external shape as well as physical and
optical properties. |
Crystal Structure |
Crystals are divided in to seven groups on the basis of specific set of angular,
geometrical and symmetrical specifications. All crystalline gems can be classified
in one of seven groups based on the above specifications. These groups are cubic,
tetragonal, hexagonal, trigonal, orthorhombic, monoclinic and triclinic. |
Culet |
The smallest facet, at the bottom of most round or brilliant cut stones, is known
as culet. Its purpose is to protect the tip of the pavilion from being chipped or
damaged. Most modern shapes have either no culet at all, or a small or very small
culet. |
Cultured Pearl |
A pearl cultivated by an artificial process that imitates the organic process by
which a natural pearl is created. An irritant such as a bead, grain of sand, or
piece of mantle tissue is inserted manually into the body of a mollusk and becomes
the nucleus of a pearl, once that mollusk secretes nacre to cover the irritation. |
Cushion |
A shape of gemstone, which ranges from square to rectangular and it has rounded
corners and larger facets to increase its brilliance. Cushion Cut stones are also
known as "pillow cut" stones. |
Cut |
Cut refers to the geometric proportions and finish of a gemstone. It is one of the
most important factors in determining gemstone’s sparkle and brilliance. The stone
should be symmetrical in all dimensions so that it will appear balanced, and so
that its facets will reflect light evenly, which will provide good brilliance to
stone. |
Cutter |
The person who cuts and polishes rough gemstones and converts them into finished
gemstones. |
Cutting |
The process of cutting, grinding or polishing rough gemstones and converting them
into finished ones. |
CZ |
CZ denotes cubic zirconium, a widely used simulant, an imitation for a natural gemstone
including diamond. But CZ is easily detectable by it’s 80% higher weight than a
normal stone of the same proportions or by thermal conductivity testing. |
Deep |
This usually means a gemstone which has been cut too deep. This deep cut maximizes
weight but sacrifices brilliance. |
Depth |
The height of a gemstone from the table to the culet which is measured in millimeters. |
Depth Percentage |
The depth percentage, which expresses how deep the gemstone is in comparison to
how wide it is. In other words, the depth of the gemstone is divided by the average
width. This depth percentage of a gemstone is important to its brilliance and value.
The pavilion should be deep enough to allow light to bounce around inside the gemstone
and be reflecting out to the eye at the proper angle. |
Diameter |
The width of the gemstone, as measured across the widest part of the girdle. |
Diamond |
The word "diamond" comes from the Greek word “Adamas”, meaning "Unconquerable".
Diamond is composed of carbon that crystallizes in the “cubic,” or “isometric,”
crystal system. It is the hardest known substance in the world (10 on Mohs’ scale).
The Diamond is uniquely resistant to damage by heat or scratching, and can be cut
or polished only by another diamond. It occurs in colors ranging from colorless
to yellow, brown, orange, green, blue, and violet. |
Dichoric |
This term refers to a gemstone that displays a different color or shade, which is
other than the original gemstone’s color, when viewed from different directions
or angles. |
Dispersion |
Dispersion is the ability of a gemstone, to separate white light into the colors
of the spectrum. It is also called the stone’s fire. |
Double Refraction |
This term is used when each ray of light is split in two as it enters in a non-cubic
mineral. |
Doublet |
Doublet is a composite stone which is made of two components, usually cemented or
glued together with a clear adhesive. |
Drop Cut |
A drop cut or briolette is a pear-shaped cut gemstone with triangular facets on
top. This type of stone makes a nice pendant. |
Emerald |
Emerald, a variety of mineral Beryl, is one of the most fascinating and beautiful
gemstones available in various shades of green color. The name of this remarkable
gemstone comes from Greek ‘Smaragdos’, meaning ‘Green Stone’. Deep green
is the most desired color in emeralds. Its hardness makes it very tough and durable
which comes in between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly found in
Columbia, Brazil, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Afghanistan and USA. Flawless emeralds
are very uncommon, and are noted for their great value, sometimes even more than
diamonds. |
Emerald Cut |
Emerald Cut gemstone is a square or rectangular shape stone with cut corners. This
is also known as Step Cut because it has rows of facets, usually 48 to 50, that
resemble a staircase. Due to its larger, more open table, this shape highlights
the clarity of a gemstone but with fewer facets, this shape brings less brilliance
than the other shapes. |
Enamel |
Enamel is a powdered colored glass fused onto the surface of the piece of jewelry.
It is a soft material and can be easily cracked or damaged. This should not be used
on jewelry pieces, which are exposed to daily wear. |
Engraving |
Engraving is a method of surface decoration in which a design is etched or engraved
with a sharp tool. |
Enhance,Enhanced,
Enhancement |
Enhance or enhancement is the process to improve a gemstone's color or clarity
by using various methods like heating and oiling. |
European Cut |
A European version of ‘ideal’ cut which was used and preferred in Europe although
it was never adopted as a common form of cutting. In this cut, gemstone‘s proportions
were worked out mathematically for light falling perpendicularly on the crown. |
Extra Facet |
An additional facet placed onto a gemstone, usually to remove a small surface blemish.
This extra facet is not required by the cutting style and symmetry. |
Eye Clean |
A term used in the jewelry industry to describe a gemstone with no blemishes or
inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. |
Face |
A term used for flat or plane surface that make up the exterior form of a crystal. |
Facet |
A plane, polished surface on a gemstone which allows light to enter in a stone and
reflect off through different angles. |
Faceting |
Faceting is the process of placing facets on a gemstone. The shape and number of
the facets give the stone its style of cut. |
Fancy Cut, Fancy Shape |
Any shape of gemstone other than the round brilliant shape is known as fancy cut
or fancy shape. It includes marquise, emerald cut, heart shape, pear shape, etc. |
Fancy Diamond |
It is a Diamond with intense body color which is other than transparent stone with
low color grade. Colored or fancy diamonds are very rare and valuable. Fancy diamonds
are available in various colors like blue, pink, purple, red etc. |
Fire |
Fire refers flashes of spectrum colors seen in a gemstone as the result of dispersion. |
Flaw |
Flaw refers to any internal or external imperfection on a gemstone and usually includes
scratch, feather, fissure, carbon spot, knot, etc. |
Flawless |
Flawless is a term used for a gemstone that is without any internal or external
flaw when viewed by a trained eye under 10X magnification. |
Fluorescence |
An effect in many gemstones mainly in diamonds that makes them glow in ultraviolet
rays or light. Stones can fluoresce in a number of colors mainly in blue. Fluorescence
ratings include none, faint, slight, medium, strong and very strong. Faint to medium
fluorescence is rarely detected under most lighting conditions which include sunlight
also whereas strong or very strong fluorescence may make a stone appear ‘milky’
or ‘oily’ in such lighting conditions. Fluorescence is not dangerous to the stone
or to its wearer. It is a unique and fascinating quality that occurs naturally in
a number of gems and minerals. |
Foiling |
A method of coating or placing silver, gold, or colored foil behind a gem in a closed
setting to enhance its appearance as light is reflected by this. This is often done
with rhinestones. |
Fracture |
A breaking or chipping in a gemstone, which usually reaches its surface and is not
in the direction of a cleavage plane. |
Freshwater Pearl |
A freshwater pearl is an irregular shaped pearl that was harvested from a freshwater
mussel (a mollusk). Usually these pearls are shaped like an uneven grain of rice,
and are less valuable than oyster pearls. Biwa and Tennessee are the varieties of
freshwater pearls. |
Full Cut Brilliant |
A full cut brilliant is a gemstone usually with total of 58 facets, consisting of
32 facets and a table above the girdle and 24 facets and a culet below the girdle. |
Garnet |
Garnet, which belongs to mineral quartz, is a family of stones having many varieties
differing in color and in their constituents. This name is derived from its resemblance
in color and shape to the seeds of the pomegranate. Garnet Stones are available
in varieties named Grossularite, Pyrope, Almandine, Rhodalite, Andradite, Essonite,
Tsavorite, Spessartite, Melanite, Allochroite, Ouvarovite and Demantoid. The most
common color of Garnets range from light red to violet, but can also be white, green,
yellow, brown and black except blue. Its hardness is between 7.5 to 8 on Mohs hardness
scale and it is mainly found in Burma, Sri Lanka, South Africa, China, USA, Tanzania,
Madagascar, India and Australia. |
Gemologist |
A person with expertise in gemology is known as gemologist. There are many recognized
courses available from various Gemological Institutes which offer study in gem identification,
grading and pricing. |
Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) |
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) was established as a non-profit organization
in 1931 by Roger Shipley. GIA maintains the highest standards for grading gemstones
and it has one of the world’s most-respected and well-regarded gemological laboratories.
GIA has developed and standardize the gemstone grading system that is used by nearly
all other gem labs. |
Gemstone |
A gemstone is a mineral or rock, which can be used in jewelry after cutting or faceting
and polishing. Gemstones are diverse in their beauty and many gems are available
in a stunning variety of colors. Most gemstones have little beauty in the rough
state and they may look like ordinary rocks or pebbles in their rough form. After
a skilled cutting and polishing of a gem, full color and luster can be seen. Gemstones
are classified into two categories, precious and semi-precious, on the basis of
their characteristics. Precious stones include diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires
whereas semi precious stones are Alexandrite, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Garnet,
Iolite, Onyx, Opal, Pearl, Peridot, Tanzanite, Topaz, Tourmaline etc. |
Geode |
Geode is a cavity within a rock which is a crystal line. It grows from inner surface
to center in a gemstone. Usually geode found in Amethyst and Peridot stones. |
Girdle |
Girdle is the widest part or outer edge of the gemstone and the dividing line between
the crown and pavilion. The girdle can be rough (matt), faceted, polished or unpolished
but a polished or faceted girdle doesn't improve a gemstone's grade. Most labs
grade a girdle's thickness, not its appearance and the descriptions of girdle thickness
range as follows: extremely thin; thin; medium; slightly thick; thick; extremely
thick. |
Girdling |
Girdling is the process of giving a circular shape to a gemstone. In this process,
a gemstone is held in a lathe, or in a cutting machine, and cut or shaped by another
diamond or tool, called a sharp. |
Gold |
Gold is a yellow precious metal used in most jewelry with various alloys. |
Grade |
A recognized measure of an aspect of gemstone’s quality, mainly clarity, cut and
color. |
Grading |
The process of evaluating a gemstone, and allocating grades to it. |
Grading Report |
A grading report or certificate is a statement, issued by an independent Gemological
Laboratory, that at the time of evaluation, the gemstone in question has been examined,
measured, and scrutinized by experienced gemologist and graders, using various gemological
instruments, and determined to contain the characteristics as stated in the Report
or Certificate. The grading report should accurately describe the proportions, weight,
color, clarity, symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence seen in the gemstone. |
Gram |
A unit of measurement of weight used to express the weight of a gem. One ounce equals
approximately 28 grams and one thousand milligrams equals one gram. |
Hardness |
The hardness of a gemstone refers it's resistance to scratching on a smooth surface.
Moh's scale of hardness, which scales from 1 (very soft) to 10 (very hard), is
useful for comparing the relative hardness of different gem materials. Diamond is
the hardest known substance on Earth and it is graded 10 on Mohs’ scale of hardness.
Hardness is directional in most gemstones. |
Head |
Head refers part of the setting that holds the center stone or solitaire in place. |
Heart Cut |
The Heart shaped gemstone is essentially a pear-shaped with a cleft at the top and
which typically contains 59 facets. Due to the complexity of the shape, skilled
cutting is necessary to maintain the gemstone’s brilliance. Generally people prefer
a heart shape stone for sentimental purposes. This shape is mostly used in pendants,
but also suitable for most jewelry items. |
Heat Treatment |
Heat treatment is the process in which heat is offered to a gemstone for the purpose
of improving its color. |
Hue |
Hue is an aspect of color which is a primary factor in viewing and grading gemstones. |
Idiochromatic
Gems |
The colors in these idiochromatic gems come from elements that are an essential
part of their chemical composition. These gems generally have only one color, or
show a very narrow range of colors. Peridot is an idiochromatic gem, which is always
green, due to one of its essential elements, iron. |
Ideal Cut |
Theoretically perfect cutting proportions and facet angles, calculated mathematically
to produce maximum brilliancy consistent with a high degree of fire in a round brilliant
cut gemstone. Ideal cut is also known as American Cut. |
IGI
(International Gemological Institute) |
IGI(International Gemological Institute) is an organization which offers a grading
report for all gemstones. IGI has laboratories located throughout the world, including
New York, Antwerp, Mumbai, Bangkok and Tokyo. |
Igneous Rocks |
These are rocks that are formed from erupted volcanic lava or solidified magma. |
Imitation |
Imitation gemstones can be anything that resembles a natural gemstone but does not
have the same physical characteristics or chemical composition. These items are
usually much less expensive than the natural forms. Imitation stones are often made
of glass or plastic and most can be detected easily by a jeweler. |
Imperfect |
An imperfect gemstone contains any external blemish or internal inclusion or flaw
that is visible to the unaided eye or that has a serious effect on the stone’s durability. |
Inclusion |
An internal imperfection or characteristic which reduces the clarity or brilliance
of a gemstone. Common gemstone inclusions are feathers, crystals, fractures, needles,
graining, pinpoints and cavities. |
Inlay |
This term refers to a decorative feature of an item of jewelry. An inlay is a piece
of material (usually stone or glass) that is partially embedded in another material
(usually metal) and these two materials make a level surface. |
Intaglio |
Intaglio is a style of carving in which the design is carved into the surface of
an engraved stone so that the rim shows the highest portion. |
Internal Graining |
A gemstone which contains internal irregular crystal growth is known as internal
graining. It may appear milky like faint lines or streaks. |
Iridescent |
An iridescent material displays many lustrous, changing colors caused by the reflection
of light due to inclusions in gemstones. |
Jade |
Jade is a semiprecious stone, which is often used to describe jadeite
and nephrite both as these two are similar in appearance and use. It is available
in varieties of shades like green, light purple, yellow, pink, creamy white etc.
Although this stone is found at many places but the best quality jade comes from
Myanmar (formerly Burma). Jade is quite a hard stone with 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale
and used in many jewelry items. |
Karat, Karat Weight |
Karat is the American spelling of carat which is now only used for gold or gold
alloys weight whereas English spelling carat is used in respect of weight of gemstones
including diamonds. Karat is always based on pure 24 karat gold and if a jewelry
item contains 18 karat gold that means it has eighteen parts pure gold and six parts
other metal alloys. |
Lapidary |
Lapidary is a skilled craftsman who cuts and polishes gemstones to their finished
state. |
Loupe |
Loupe is a French word for magnifying glass. It is a small magnifying lens used
to examine gemstones. 10X magnification is the standard. |
Luster |
The quality of reflected and refracted light from the surface of a gemstone or pearl.
Luster is mainly dependent on stone's surface (polish) and the reflective index
of the mineral. Luster can be described as: adamantine, pearly, greasy, metallic,
silky, resinous, vitreous, earthy (also known as dull) and waxy. |
Make |
Make is a trade term referring to the proportions, symmetry and polish of a gemstone. |
Marquise Cut |
The Marquise Cut is a traditional shape having elongated ends at both edges. The
pointed ends make this shape the most fragile and the most expensive of brilliant
style cuts. It has a total of 56 facets and construction of facet requires a lot
of experience and delicacy of the sharp points demand utmost precaution. Now-a-days
this shape is very popular for engagement rings. |
Matrix |
Matrix is a rock in which gemstones are found. It is also referred as the host rock
or parent rock. |
Melee |
This term is used to describe small brilliant-cut diamonds under .20 carat. Generally,
these small diamonds or gemstones are used to embellish mountings, setting or larger
stones. |
Metamorphic Rock |
These are rocks that have been changed by heat and/or pressure to form new rocks
consisting of new minerals. |
Millimeter |
The unit of measurement, which is used to determine a pearl and gem's diameter,
equal to about 0.04 inch. |
Mine |
A place where gemstones are extracted from the ground by using various methods of
mining like open cast, deep pit etc. |
Mineral |
Mineral is a naturally occurring, inorganic element of the Earth with a consistent
atomic structure and chemical composition. |
Mixed Cut |
A mixed cut refers to a cut in which the style of the facets above and below the
girdle are different. A standard mixed cut is brilliant cut above and step cut below. |
Modern Brilliant
Cut |
It is a round brilliant cut unless otherwise stated normally with 58 facets including
the culet and polished using relatively modern theory. This shape is considered
as ideal for a diamond because it maximizes a stone's sparkle and brilliance. |
Modified Brilliant
Cut |
A cut in a shape or style other than round brilliant cut, such as oval, pear, marquise,
heart, princess, radiant, or baguette. |
Mohs scale |
It is a ten point scale to find mineral hardness which is devised by Friedrich Mohs,
a German mineralogist, in the 19th century. The diamond is the hardest of all known
natural substances and it scores 10 on Mohs Scale. |
Mother of Pearl |
The iridescent lining of an oyster shell, often used as a nucleus for a cultured
pearl. |
Mounting |
The process of making a ring or other piece of jewelry into which gemstones will
be set. |
Natural |
A small portion of the original surface of a rough gemstone left by the cutter when
polishing and faceting a gemstone and which is frequently on or near the girdle.
This is generally the sign of a cutter attempting to maximize the weight retention
of the rough gemstone. Usually naturals do not affect the clarity grade and in most
cases, they are undetectable to the naked eye. |
Natural Gemstones |
These have been formed in natural environment with no interference by human. They
form in a variety of ways in many different environments from many different chemical
compounds. By the time they appear in our jewelry they've been cut or polished,
but they've not been treated or altered in other ways. |
Natural pearl |
A pearl that forms naturally, in an oyster, is known as natural pearl. When a grain
of sand or other small object enters in the shell and the oyster is unable to eject
the object then the oyster will coat the object with layers of nacre to form a pearl.
There is no way to determine if an oyster contains a pearl, so to create a dependable
pearl supply, the culturing process was invented. |
Old European Cut |
The earliest known form of brilliant cut diamond with a very small table, a heavy
crown, and usually great overall depth. This is also known as old mine cut. |
Onyx |
Onyx is a beautiful gemstone composed of chalcedony (a variety of quartz) and available
in colors like black, white, black with white bands, red, brown etc. Onyx which
is available in a red, brown or reddish brown color is known as Sardonyx. The bands
that are found on this stone run parallel and are consistent. It is extremely similar
to Agate, another variety of quartz. Agate bands are round or circular and are not
consistent. Its hardness in between 6.5 to 7 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly
found in Madagascar, India, Brazil, United States, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. |
Opal |
The name Opal is derived from three sources: Sanskrit ‘Upala’, Latin ‘Opalus’, and
Greek ‘Opallios’. All three of these words mean the same thing – precious stone.
Opal is made from sand and water. It has the same chemical formula as quartz with
the addition of 3 to 10 % water content. This is a very popular gemstone, mainly
due to its wonderful variety of rich and beautiful colors like black, white, gray,
yellow, red, orange and colorless. High quality opals have an extraordinary feature
of opalescence in which light reflects and bounces around the very small structures
of the stone, giving it a wonderful aura and sometimes iridescence. The group of
fine Opals include quite a number of wonderful gemstones which are differentiated
on the basis of the variety, place of occurrence, and color of the main body, into
Dark or Black Opal, White or Light Opal, Milk or Crystal Opal, Boulder Opal, Opal
Matrix, Mexican and Fire Opal. Its hardness in between 5 to 6.5 on Mohs hardness
scale and it is mainly found in Australia, Brazil, Mali, Japan, Russia, USA and
Mexico. Australia is the major supplier of Fine Opals and almost 95 per cent of
all Opals come from Australian mines. |
Opalescence |
Opalescence is a kind of light play that happens with certain high quality stones.
In these stones, light reflects and bounces around the stone structures which give
them a wonderful aura and sometimes a milky blue form of iridescence. |
Opaque |
Opaque refers to the transparency of a gemstone. Generally opaque stone does not
transmit light as it is so thick with inclusions or flaws and due to that light
is blocked from passing through the gemstone. |
Optical Effects |
Some gemstones exhibit extraordinary optical effects known as phenomena. These rare
and beautiful effects very often add value to gemstones. Some of these popular phenomena
are Chatoyancy (cat's eye effect), Asterism (star effect), Color Change, Aventurescence
and Iridescence. |
Organic Gem |
Gemstones made by or derived from living organisms are known as organic gems. These
include pearls from oysters, amber from tree resin etc. |
Oval Cut |
The Oval Cut is a beautiful Fancy shape which offers great brilliance and fire through
its 56 facets. This is an elongated version of round cut, provides the same brightness
which comes from a round brilliant shaped gemstone. |
Parti-colored Gems |
These are crystals that are made up of different colored parts. Stones made up of
two colors are known as bicolor and made up of three colors are known as tricolor
whereas sometimes these are available in more than three colors also. In some cases,
Tourmaline exhibits as many as 15 different colors or shades within one crystal. |
Pave |
An attractive style of jewelry setting in which numerous small stones are mounted
as close together as possible to create a sparkly stone shell. The pave setting
is very popular with diamonds and this setting style covers the whole piece of jewelry
with diamond crust and conceals the metal under it. |
Pavilion |
Pavilion is the lower part of a gemstone, below the girdle. |
Pear Cut |
The Pear Cut is a fancy shape stone that looks like a teardrop due to its single
point and rounded end with 56 to 58 facets. This shape is popular for its uniqueness
and brilliance. |
Pearl |
A Pearl is an organic gem, produced when certain mollusks, primarily oysters cover
a foreign object with beautiful layers of nacre. A good sized Pearl can take between
five to eight years to form, which is usually the entire life of the oyster or mollusk.
There are two types of Pearls: Natural Pearls, formed inside wild oysters, practically
impossible to find nowadays, and Cultured Pearls in which the production of the
pearl is artificially induced. For producing cultured pearls, shell beads are placed
inside an oyster and the oyster is returned to the water. When the pearls are later
harvested, the oyster has covered the bead with layers of nacre. The finest Natural
Pearls are fished almost exclusively from the Persian Gulf and the China Sea, while
the best cultivated ones come from Japan, Korea and more recently Australia. Its
hardness in between 2.5 to 4.5 on Mohs hardness scale and should be handled with
care. Pearls are usually white, sometimes with a creamy or pinkish tinge, but may
be tinted with yellow, green, blue, brown, purple, or black. Pearls are available
in different shapes: round, semi-round, button, drop, pear, oval, baroque, and ringed.
Perfectly round Pearls are the rarest and most expensive. Fine Natural Pearls are
much more expensive and rare to find than Cultured Pearls. |
Peridot |
Peridot, a variety of mineral olivine, is a very old but still very popular gemstone.
Peridot is formed deep within the earth under tremendous heat and pressure. The
color of peridot is an integral part of its structure. Chemically peridot is an
iron-magnesium-silicate and its intensity of the color depends upon the amount of
iron contained by it. It is available in only one color shade with colors like yellow
green, olive and brownish green. This gemstone is in fact identified by three names,
Peridot, Chrysolith and Olivin. Its hardness in between 6.5 to 7 on Mohs hardness
scale and it is mainly found in Australia, Mexico, Sri Lanka, South Africa, Tanzania,
China, Burma, Arizona, USA, Pakistan and Afghanistan. |
Platinum |
Platinum is a silvery gray precious metal often used for setting or mounting high
quality gemstones. |
Pleochroism |
Pleochroism refers to the ability of certain gems to display two or more colors
when viewed from different directions. |
Point |
A unit of measurement which is used to describe the weight of gems where one point
is equivalent to one-hundredth of a carat. For example, a 1/2 carat diamond weighs
50 points. |
Polish |
Polish is considered as smoothness of the surface of a fashioned stone in which
optical reflection is maximized. Generally a polished stone does not show visible
wheel marks or burn marks under 10X magnification. Polish is an indicator of the
quality of stone’s cut which is graded as Ideal, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair
or Poor. |
Polishing |
The process of polish which converts a stone’s rough or irregular surface to a smooth
surface by using various methods. |
Precious,Precious Stone |
The term precious is used for stones as well as metal. Stones those are highly valuable
for their hardness and rarity, are known as precious stones. Precious stones include
diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. |
Princess Cut |
The princess cut is a fancy shape gem which has pointed corners and square in shape.
The ideal princess cut will have length to width ratio as close to 1.00:1.00 as
possible. Princess cut stones can range from this perfect square through to almost
rectangular. |
Prong Setting |
Prong setting is the most frequently used method of setting gemstones into jewelry.
This setting usually consists of four or six small metal tips or claws to hold the
stone tightly. This setting allows maximum amount of light to enter in a stone from
all angles and because of this, stone appears more brilliant and larger than its
actual size. |
Purity |
Purity is also known as clarity which describes the absence or presence of flaws
inside or on the surface of a gemstone. For diamonds, purity is graded from F (flawless)
to I3 (included 3) whereas for other colored gemstones, purity is classified into
three ‘Types’. Type I colored stones include stones with very little or no inclusions,
Type II colored stones include stones that often have a few inclusions whereas Type
III colored stones include stones that usually always have inclusions. |
Quartz |
Quartz is the most common mineral on earth. It is a crystalline mineral that comes
in many forms. |
Radiant Cut |
The Radiant Cut is a fancy shaped rectangular or square gemstone with cut corners.
This shape comes with 62 to 70 facets and offers the elegance of the emerald shape
with the brilliance of the princess shape. Trimmed corners are the signature of
this shape, and they help to make the radiant cut a popular and versatile choice
for jewelry. |
Reflection |
The term reflection is used for important optical effect where light bounces or
returns once it strikes the surface of a gemstone. |
Refraction |
The term Refraction is also used for optical effect where light deviates or changes
its direction once it enters in a gemstone. |
Refractive Index (RI) |
When light meets the surface of a polished gemstone, some of the light is reflected,
whereas most is absorbed. This entered light in the gem slows down and is bent from
its original path due to the difference of density between air and gemstone. This
process is known as refraction. This refraction varies from gem to gem depending
on density and can be measured and used to help identify the gem type. This measurement
is known as refractive index (RI). |
Refractometer |
Refractometer is a device that is used to measure the refractive index of gemstones. |
Rough |
The term rough is used for any uncut or unpolished gemstone. |
Round Brilliant Cut |
The round brilliant cut is one of the most traditional and popular shapes. It has
58 facets which offer great brilliance and stability. These 58 facets include 1
table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets, 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown, 8 pavilion
facets, 16 lower-girdle facets, and usually a culet on the pavilion, or at bottom.
This cut is considered as ideal for a diamond because it maximizes a stone's sparkle. |
Ruby |
Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum and known for its magnificent color,
excellent hardness and outstanding brilliance. Only red corundum is entitled to
be called ruby, all other colors being classified as sapphires. This stone is available
in colors like bright red, brownish-red, purplish-red, dark red and blood red. The
name ‘Ruby’ comes from Latin ‘Rubens’ which means ‘Red’. In Sanskrit, the
ruby is called ‘Ratnaraj’, meaning ‘the king of precious stones’. This gemstone
has excellent luster, rarity and durability. Its hardness is 9 on Mohs hardness
scale and it is mainly found in Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Tanzania. Transparent
rubies of large sizes are even rarer than diamonds. |
Sapphire |
Sapphire is a variety of the mineral corundum and represents all the colors except
red corundum, which is ruby. Its physical and chemical properties are virtually
similar to properties of ruby. Blue is the main color of the sapphire whereas this
gemstone is also found in colors like yellow, green, orange, pink, gray, colorless,
black, brown, and purple. The word ‘Sapphire’ in its plain context refers only to
blue sapphire, unless a prefix color is specified. Sapphire is one of the most desirable
gems due to its color, hardness, durability, and luster. Its hardness is 9 on Mohs
hardness scale and it is mainly found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Burma, Australia,
India, Brazil and Africa. |
Sardonyx |
Onyx which is available in a red, brown or reddish brown color is known as sardonyx. |
Saturation |
A color's position in a gemstone on a neutral to vivid scale. |
Secondary Deposit |
Minerals and/or gemstones that have been separated from their original host rock,
usually due to effects of weather, and deposited elsewhere. An alluvial deposit
is an example of a secondary deposit. |
Semi Precious,
Semi Precious
Stone |
Stones those are valued for their beauty and not covered under any one of the four
‘Precious Stones’, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby or Sapphire, are known as semi precious
stones. Semi precious stones are available in all price ranges from low priced to
high priced. Semi precious stones are Alexandrite, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine,
Garnet, Iolite, Onyx, Opal, Pearl, Peridot, Tanzanite, Topaz, Tourmaline etc. |
Semi-mount |
A style of jewelry setting that has the side stones already mounted, but which contains
an empty set of prongs which are intended to mount a center stone as per the customer’s
choice. |
Setter |
Setter is the person who puts gemstones into jewelry mounts. |
Setting |
Setting is the process of fixing a gemstone into a mount to create a piece of jewelry. |
Shape |
A gemstone cut by shape describes the outline of the stone and pattern of the facet
arrangement. Gems are available in various shapes like Modern Round Brilliant, Emerald,
Princess, Heart, Oval, Pear etc. Round brilliant is the most popular shape for all
jewelry items. All other non-round shapes are called fancy shapes. |
Silver |
Silver has been known and used for thousands of years and it is considered as one
of the three precious metals along with gold and platinum. Pure silver is very soft
metal with its lustrous white color. Silver was used as jewelry metal well before
the development of white gold alloys, and before platinum could be isolated. |
Simulant,Simulated Stones |
Simulated stones can be anything that resembles a natural gemstone but does not
have the same physical characteristics or chemical composition. These items are
also known as imitation stones and usually much less expensive than the natural
forms. Simulated stones are often made of glass or plastic and most can be detected
easily by a jeweler. |
Single Cut |
A very small round stone with only 17 or 18 facets, instead of the normal 57 or
58 facets of a full cut round brilliant. These facets include 8 bezel, 8 pavilions,
a table and sometimes a culet facet. |
Solitaire |
A ring or any other piece of jewelry containing a single diamond or other gem. This
style is very popular in rings. |
Sparkle |
Sparkle is the combination of gemstone’s fire and brilliance. |
Specific Gravity |
Specific gravity of a gem is an indication of its density. It is calculated by comparing
the gemstone's weight with the weight of an equal volume of water. The greater
the specific gravity of a gem, the heavier it will feel. |
Step Cut |
Step cut is a style of faceting arrangements which is named because of its broad,
flat planes that resemble stair steps. In this style of arrangement, there are three
concentric rows of facets arranged around the table and, on the pavilion, there
are three concentric rows arranged around the culet. |
Stone |
A general word for any gemstone including diamond. |
Symmetry |
Symmetry is an important aspect of the gemstone cutting process which refers to
the balance of the outline shape and alignment of the facets. It is graded as Ideal,
Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. |
Synthetic |
A synthetic gemstone shares a natural stone's physical, chemical and optical qualities,
but it is created in a laboratory. Some modern synthetic gemstones look more natural
and are more difficult to identify, but an experienced jeweler or gemologist can
usually detect them. |
Table |
Table is the largest and flat facet which is placed on top of a gemstone. Most of
the light enters and exits from this part of a gemstone. |
Table Percentage |
The table percentage is a comparison of the diameter of the table facet to the diameter
of the entire gemstone. |
Tanzanite |
Tanzanite is a blue variety of the gemstone zoisite and named after the East African
state of Tanzania, the only place in the world where it has been found. It is a
trichroic gem which displays three layers of color. The colors dark blue, green-yellow
and red-purple can be seen. Tanzanite is a beautiful gemstone, known for its brilliance
but on the other hand it is a delicate gemstone which comes in between 6 to 7 on
Mohs hardness scale. |
Tension Setting |
A method of setting gemstones using only the springiness of the mount to hold the
stone firm. Although it looks quite spectacular but is very unsafe and should be
avoided. |
Tone |
An attribute of color which determines its lightness or darkness of shading and
important in grading gemstones. |
Topaz |
Topaz, a member of quartz family, is a beautiful gemstone that most commonly is
found in yellow color. It is also available in various other colors like blue, brown,
green, orange, pink, red, white, gold, colorless etc. The name topaz is derived
from the Sanskrit word ‘Tapas’, meaning ‘Fire’. Topaz, with 8 on Mohs hardness scale,
is considered tough and durable gemstone but still is not an invincible stone. It
cracks and chips easily than many other gemstones. It is mainly found in Brazil,
Sri Lanka, Burma, Nigeria, USA, Australia, Madagascar and Mexico. |
Tourmaline |
Tourmalines are gemstones with deep brilliance and an incomparable variety of colors
like black, red, pink, blue, green, grey and yellow. These Gemstones are mixed crystals
of aluminium boron silicate with a complex and changing composition. The name tourmaline
comes from the Singhalese words 'tura mali', means something like 'stone with
mixed colors'. Tourmalines with different colors have different names. It comes
in between 7 to 7.5 on Mohs hardness scale and it is mainly found in Brazil, Sri
Lanka, South Africa, Nigeria, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Madagascar,
Pakistan, Afghanistan and USA. |
Translucent |
Translucent is used to describe stones that allow light to pass through them, but
the light is diffused. |
Transparent |
Transparent is used to describe stones that are clear and transmit light without
any diffusion so that objects can be seen through the stones. |
Treated Gemstone,
Treatment |
Treated gemstones are those which have been processed in some way to enhance their
color or clarity. A number of treatment techniques are used to improve the color
and appearance of natural and synthetic gemstones. Heat treatment is the oldest
method whereas other techniques include bleaching, dying, laser drilling, fracture
filling, high pressure high temperature (HPHT), annealing, irradiation, and surface
coloration. |
Trichoric |
Trichoric refers to a gemstone that displays three different colors or shades when
viewed from different angles or directions. |
Trilliant Cut, Trillion Cut |
The Trilliant Cut is a triangular fancy shaped gemstone which is also known as Trillion
Cut. This shape of gemstone looks unusual and displays a very sharp brilliance or
fire. It may either have pointed corners or more rounded corners. |
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